El Cardenal

El Cardenal isn’t flashy. It isn’t trendy. It’s just a nice restaurant, appropriately updated to keep pace with the changing world, and consistently providing quality food and service. Breakfast or lunch at El Cardenal won’t likely be your most memorable meal in Mexico City. But it’s the place you’ll go back to time and time again because you just know it will be good.

The restaurant has three locations. The original location in the city’s center with a more stark and modern interpretation located adjacent to the lobby of Hilton Hotel Alameda, across from Plaza Alameda. And a third location in the city’s center, just blocks from the original restaurant, has recently been added to family.

Today’s review is for breakfast at the Hilton Inn location. Décor, although understated, is pleasant and appealing. There are monochrome photographs of the sites in Mexico City from the past blown up to poster size occupying one full wall of the restaurant. This is about all the decoration there is. But it’s about all that’s needed. The hardwood floors and honed stone flooring in the pathways give the appropriate ambiance to match the Hilton’s ambiance.

I was at El Cardenal for breakfast. I was promptly seated on a Thursday morning without need for a reservation. The table was covered in a high-quality cotton tablecloth with porcelain plates with a tasteful blue decoration around the edges of the cups and plates. Pressed white cotton napkins. Shortly after being seated one of the members of the small army of waiters and bus boys approached with a big basket full of a variety of breadstuffs. I chose a croissant. Probably not the best choice for Mexico City. They don’t quite have that French finesse it requires to bake a croissant like the heavenly ones you get in Buenos Aires. Next time I’ll opt for a more “Mexican” looking bread when the basket comes by.

They have a rather extensive breakfast menu with a variety of omelets and Mexican egg dishes. Something for everyone. I, of course, requested guidance from the waiter, who after making inquiry about my tolerance for hot food, recommended the Aporreado stilo “Cardenal”, which was a salsa fresca (pico de gallo) pulverized to a puree consistency with shredded bits of beef, heated, and poured over scrambled eggs. This was hot, but nothing my Texan palette couldn’t tolerate.

It was served with a small bowl of black beans and a choice of flour or corn tortillas. When in Rome do as the Romans do. So I requested the corn tortillas.

The stew was flavorful. Obviously made with fresh ingredients. The service was flawless. The staff was all friendly and helpful. No delays in service.

Although I have not tried the two downtown locations I would think you’d get a similar high quality of food and service, albeit in a slightly less sterile atmosphere.

For breakfast, El Cardenal is a definite “Go”. I’ll soon be sampling the food at lunch and will provide my take on that experience. Worth a walk of a few blocks if you’re staying in any one of the many hotels along close by Paseo de la Reforma.