Belgrano . Buenos Aires
- Ambience 70%
- Service 70%
- Food (Execution) 70%
- Creativity 70%
- Value 70%
Address: Sucre 676
Telephone: +54 011 4782-9082
Restaurant Type: Upscale Casual
Cuisine: Argentine, Eclectic Gourmet
Hours: Sun-Sat 11:30 am to 4 pm and 8 pm to 1 am[/types] [/types] [/types]
Summary of Review
Restaurant Review for Sucre
Rating: 4.2 stars
It had been close to a decade since I had dined at Sucre in Buenos Aires. During my first trip to South America my traveling buddy and I ventured out to Belgrano for dinner based on recommendations in some travel guides. We weren’t disappointed.
Not much has changed since then. The walled in wine cellar has been replaced with a more elegant glass display chamber but both décor and service are quite the same as I remember them. There really is no décor save perhaps a large vase of white lilies in the corner. But the lack of paintings or other decorative accessories doesn’t seem to detract from the ambiance which is elegant, but not pretentious. No white table cloths. In fact, no table cloths at all.
Low key electronic disco rhythms, the kind they play at discotheques where people dance with imaginary partners, are bellowing at a fairly high volume from the speakers overhead. But somehow, what would seem out of place in a fine dining establishment, seems to work quite well.
With the clean elegant décor and the “out on the edge” music there is a busy, positive vibe in the whole room, aided by the fact that every table in the place is occupied. No surprise.
You’d think that a place that hasn’t changed much in a decade would be earning some reference to a broken record that keeps replaying the same refrain again and again. But no, Sucre is sort of like the Beatles White Album. You can play it all the way through hundreds of times and it still seems just as ground breaking today as it did five decades ago.
And so it is with Sucre.
I was seated by a friendly young hostess. A platter with a warm baguette soon arrived. It was crisp on the outside with a soft steaming center. I was served with a little ramekin of butter on the side. But not just any butter. This was a creamy smoked butter that was very unique.
I started with a bone marrow accompanied by a slice of toasted bread and charred bitter greens. The marrow was smoky and delicious and the charred greens were great but I felt myself longing for something a little sweet to offset the strong salty flavor of the marrow. This dish was executed well but I was somehow longing for more.
Within less than five minute after the finished platter of bone marrow was pulled I was brought the main course, the Garron de Cordero Patagonico, a braised lamb shank with grilled cauliflower and chickpeas with pomegranate, onions, mint and cilantro.
The lamb was beyond fork tender. You practically needed a spoon to eat the tenderest parts. It was topped with a slightly sweet and pungent little pepper sauce, somewhat like a Mexican adobo sauce, but much more subdued. I was somewhat surprised when I tasted the cauliflower. It had an interesting and tasty charred flavor … but was not hot. At first I thought it was the mistake by the cooks. But the more I ate I felt the cauliflower at room temperature was a positive contrast to the steaming hot meat. I concluded it was likely the intent of the chef to serve the side dish in this way to achieve that contrast. The first couple of bites of chickpeas were good but then as I tasted a few more bites they got even better. The first couple of bites were short of the cilantro and pomegranate seeds that were the perfect accompaniment to those mealy and firm little chickpeas. This dish was truly a success. Every little element played its part in creating a great overall impression.
I just had to have a dessert to see if it would live up to this main course. Being in Argentina, it is mandatory to have at least one dessert per week that includes dulce de leche and I was short on my quota for the week so naturally I ordered the Dulce de Leche Volcan (the Argentine take on the dark chocolate molten cake that is quite common back in the States.
This one did not disappoint. The little dulce de leche cake was much lighter and spongier than the dense chocolate cake to which I’m accustomed. As I cut into the soft spongy cake the warn dulce de leche came flowing out. Each bite, together with a small dab of the accompanying vanilla gelato and the chocolate crumble on the plate, was like a little bit of beautiful Argentina on a spoon. Yum.
You’d think that three courses of this caliber would set you back US$75 or more. But the menu is actually priced much less than most of the better restaurants in the city. All three courses combined were less than US$55 (ARS$415) making Sucre not only one of the best restaurants in the city, but one of the best values as well.
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