Overall Rating

Rating Details

St Regis Hotel - Mexico City


In a Nutshell

Garden setting. Very unique. Fabulous food and very reasonable prices. Can't say enough good about this place.

Read the full review

When the famed Michelin Guide finally comes to Mexico City, Huset won’t likely garner even a 1 star rating in the Guide. It just doesn’’t quite fit the mold. But here at ComaBeba, we like to think we have our finger on the culinary pulse of diners worldwide.

And at Huset, that pulse will be thumping by the time you finish off that dessert, scraping up that last bit of blueberry syrup with the bottom of the fork.

I’ve often stated that what most people want is food that makes them feel good. And they want to enjoy it that food in a comfortable setting. White tablecloths don’t conjure up feelings of comfort. Neither do tidbits of edible flowers placed with tweezers on a plate.

There's not any of that uncomfortable stuff at Huset. You’ll be eating in a lush green garden with pebbles under foot. They do give you a cloth napkin. But they don’t require you to use it and there’s no waiter in a bow tie laying it in your lap.

If you elect to have lunch at Huset, the sun will be trickling through the overhead vines or trying to find its way around the garden umbrellas. In the evening you’ll be dining under those dim incandescent lights that people love to string around their terraces and courtyards.

It’s not quite a fairy-tale setting, but it’s close.

The waiters, as previously noted, aren’t wearing bow ties. They’re wearing jeans and comfortable clean sneakers that allow them to move quickly through the gravel underfoot. They’re all wearing Huset issued, blue plaid shirts, and long blue denim aprons. They smile. They’re helpful. They carefully watch to attend to any possible need. They replace the tableware with each new course. They basically follow all the same rules as those stuffy waiters wearing the bow ties do. They just do it without bow ties.

The music is lively and up tempo.

It's a short and manageable menu. But something for everyone.

I asked for a recommendation from the waiter. He suggested the gnocchi and the seared tuna. So that’s what I had.

The gnocchi were these huge potato dumplings drowned in cream and cheese and butter and herbs and more cheese and . . . well, you get the picture, right? Simply stated, this was the best gnocchi I’ve ever had. And the portions are huge at Huset. As an appetizer, that gnocchi was enough to be shared by the entire von Trapp family in The Sound of Music.

[Note to interpreter, (La novicia rebelde)]

The main dish was tuna, seared perfectly, beautifully rosy pink in the middle. Seasoned enough to bring out all the potential of the tuna. Set on a bed of simple steamed rice adequately salted (which is rare in Latin America) and accompanied by slices of avocados in a slightly pungent sauce and the sweetest cherry tomatoes I’ve ever tasted, sliced in half. Execution was perfect and the ingredients were of the highest quality imaginable.

[Note: Use aguacate, not palta, as the interpreted word]

These first two courses were so good that I decided to try a dessert. No cart full of pastries and cream puffs at Huset. And no impressive Carta de Postres At Huset, for dessert, you have this or that. Nothing more. I forget what the the "that" was. But on the day of my visit the “this” was a slice of cheesecake, topped with sorbet made with an assortment of berries, and surrounded by blueberries in a sweet syrup.

The cheesecake was ideal. The perfect consistency. The perfect sweetness. The sorbet on top and the blueberry syrup was chilled to just less than freezing. The contrast in the temperature of the tepid cheesecake and the sorbet and almost frozen berries was tremendous.

I’ve eaten at dozens of restaurants in Mexico City over the past few weeks. And most of those experiences were surprisingly favorable.

But this lunch at Huset was, quite frankly, probably my favorite.

There’s no tasting menu at Huset. If diners had to endure eight courses of food this good, I’d be having to name the title of this review, "Culinary Orgasm in the Garden".

Rating Details


Modelo Negra

Copa Airlines

Modelo Negra

Copa Airlines

St Regis Hotel - Mexico City