Hanzo

Hanzo, the ambitious venture of a handful of Japanese businessmen, opened its doors out in Chacarilla (Santiago de Surco) back in 2006, bringing what was as close to authentic Japanese cuisine as you could find at the time to Lima’s limited restaurant scene.

The restaurant now has a location in the more upscale neighborhood in San Isidro which is somewhat more impressive in terms of décor than the location in Santiago de Surco.

Although the décor may have changed in those thirteen years, the mission statement, remains the same.

Of the city’s best choices for experiencing the city’s somewhat ambiguous Nikkei cuisine, Hanzo remains the most “Japanese” of the lot.

The décor is also the most “Japanese” in this genre as well. The company’s adopted icon is a slightly overweight samurai swordsman wearing a kabuto helmet embellished with a maedate crest. That warrior, who looks a bit like a sumo wrestler going to a masquerade party as an ancient Japanese warrior, is a recurring theme throughout the restaurant décor.

Service is typically good except when the restaurant is at capacity. Everything becomes a bit more chaotic during those brief busy periods in a restaurant that’s more densely furnished than most.

If you’re an aficionado of Japanese cuisine, don’t come expecting to see a legitimate itamae wielding a knife at the sushi bar. More than likely it’s a young Peruvian cook cutting your fish. At least the knife will be Japanese.

At least Japanese food-buffs will be able to understand the menu. It’s organized into logical groups using Japanese names for ingredients and foods that you’ll likely recognize, which is more than you can say for the weird, esoteric monikers they’ve come up with at Osaka and Maido for their dishes. About the only thing Japanese at Osaka and Maido are the grandparents of the chefs.

The knife-work at Hanzo is respectable and the fish is fresh. Plating is nice but not especially creative. There’s a limited amount of fusion but not much other than the handful of items in the ceviche and tiraditos section of the menu. Hanzo also has a formidable assortment of Sake and Japanese beers.

Pricing is reasonable, in line with the pricing at Toshi and Matsuei. It’s a tad less expensive than Osaka and infinitely less expensive than Maido.

Despite a dining room with an unimpressive décor that’s densely packed with tables, Hanzo in San Isidro remains a viable choice for diners looking for a restaurant that speaks Nikkei with a heavy Japanese accent.