Felix Brasserie

San Isidro

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  • Ambience barcounterprefix*90barcountersuffix* 90%
  • Service barcounterprefix*85barcountersuffix* 85%
  • Food barcounterprefix*85barcountersuffix* 85%
  • Creativity barcounterprefix*95barcountersuffix* 95%
  • Value barcounterprefix*85barcountersuffix* 85%

Restaurant Review for Felix Brasserie

Review by: Ollie O
Rating: 4.4 stars
Review Date: 11/24/2018

 

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Felix Brasserie has a winning formula. It has a menu with international flare crafted by a chef that is arguably the most talented in Lima and whose upscale dining venue, Rafael, wowed us with creativity, superior execution and flawless service. It has a sleek, casual, and comfortable ambiance that’s exactly what contemporary diners in Lima are looking for in Lima. And it has a large open-air terrace for outdoor dining that make further adds to the appeal.

On the two occasions I visited Felix Brasserie in 2017, the service was very good. The manager visited the table to make sure all was going as expected. I’ve seen some bad reviews on consumer review sites related to service, but they were all within the first few months that this restaurant was opened in late 2016.

How international is the menu? Well, despite numerous consumer reviews describing the menu as a fusion of Peruvian and Spanish cuisine, about the only thing Spanish on the menu is the word “Tapas” and the Boquerones which is a classic Spanish tapas item. The menu would more accurately be described as a mix of Mexican, Southeast Asian and Italian, with a heavy dose of Peruvian personality.

Even the crudo section features ceviche and tiraditos showcasing ingredients rarely seen in these classic Peruvian dishes such as jalapeños and plums. Despite the French moniker of “brasserie” in the name of the restaurant, the only cast members in the play faring from France were the Steak Tartare and the Cherry Clafoutis dessert.

Half the “Tapas” section of the menu is dedicated to Osterling’s take on Mexican cuisine, featuring tacos, tequeños (called “flautas” in Mexico) and Tex-Mex quesadillas (called “gringas” in Mexico City). The other half includes a couple of Chinese steamed buns and a plate of crispy fried octopus, shrimp and calamari (“chicharrons”) with an Asian slaw.

Perhaps the most unique part of the menu is the pasta section that includes nine pasta dishes. Osterling and his chefs did a good job of coming up with some unique pasta dishes with some ingredients that clearly elevate these dishes to the status of gourmet fusion. A burrata and mascarpone filled ravioli with white asparagus and a truffle cream. That sounds sexier on the plate than Sofia Loren was on the silver screen. Every pasta dish on the menu is that unique.

With seafood, sometimes the less you do, the better. Especially with flaky sea bass. I had the seared sea bass with a simple medley of veggies on the side. The fish was cooked perfectly, the moist flakes inside contrasting beautifully to the heavily caramelized exterior of the fish.

I’ve had two desserts at Felix Brasserie. The cherry clafoutis with ice cream was excellent. I wasn’t impressed with the pecan pie. It’s a bad habit of Latin American chefs to attempt to convert pie recipes from the American South into individual servings. It doesn’t work for a Boston cream pie. It doesn’t work for a key lime pie. And doesn’t work for a pecan pie. I wouldn’t order this one again. Way too much crust, and a lousy crust at that.

Despite a few technical errors and minor lapses of service, what Felix Brasserie brings to the casual dining genre is impressive. Some of the dishes are almost identical to the stellar plates offered at the upscale flagship restaurant, Rafael. Osterling’s take on Mexican, Asian and Italian cuisine is impressive. Yes. It’s a bit pricey. But in my opinion, it’s unique enough to warrant the higher price tag.

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Latin America Brewpub Guide

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