Cosme

San Isidro

%

Overall Rating

  • Ambience 85% 85%
  • Service 85% 85%
  • Food (Execution) 90% 90%
  • Creativity 90% 90%
  • Value 65% 65%
Restaurant Details
Cosme

Locale: San Isidro
Address: Tudela y Varela 162

Telephone: +51 1 4215228
Restaurant Type: Casual Dining
Cuisine: Eclectic Gourmet Service Type: Table Service Price: $$$ Menu items offered: Breads and Pastries, Carpaccios - Tartares, Coffee, Desserts, Espresso, Hamburgers, Ice Cream, Rice - Risotto, Salads, Seafood
Hours: Mon-Sat: 12pm to 12am Sun: 12pm to 4pm

Restaurant Details
Cosme

Locale: San Isidro Address: Telephone: Restaurant Type: Casual Dining
Cuisine: Eclectic Gourmet Service Type: Table Service

Price: $$$ Hours:
Mon:

Menu Items Offered: Breads and Pastries, Carpaccios - Tartares, Coffee, Desserts, Espresso, Hamburgers, Ice Cream, Rice - Risotto, Salads, Seafood

Hours: Mon-Sat: 12pm to 12am
Sun: 12pm to 4pm

Menu Items Offered: Breads and Pastries, Carpaccios - Tartares, Coffee, Desserts, Espresso, Hamburgers, Ice Cream, Rice - Risotto, Salads, Seafood

Summary of Review

Comfort-food elevated to gourmet status. Capricious and colorful decor. Friendly staff and a chef that mingles, making sure everything is right. Cosme is a "top 5" casual dining spot in Lima.

Summary of Review

Comfort-food elevated to gourmet status. Capricious and colorful decor. Friendly staff and a chef that mingles, making sure everything is right. Cosme is a "top 5" casual dining spot in Lima.

Restaurant Review for Cosme

 

Review by: Ollie O
Rating: 4.4 stars
Review Date: 04/13/2017
Is it comfort food? Or is it gourmet cuisine? Odd as it may seem, it’s both at Cosme. After doing his obligatory time at the Cordon Bleu and apprenticeships at Astrid y Gaston and a few Michelin star worthy restaurants in Europe, chef James Berckemeyer and his buddies opened the doors to Cosme.

It’s easy to get a little bored with ají de gallina, ceviche and tiraditos in Lima. So, when some young chef breaks the mold and produces a unique and interesting menu, it’s a breath of fresh air. Cosme is capricious and colorful. It’s comfort food in a comfortable setting.

It’s been less than a couple of days since we gushed about how much we liked what they were doing over at 27 Tapas, a few blocks away from Cosme in San Isidro. Now we’re gushing again about how great Cosme is. A sound concept, a competently managed staff. a creative and well executed menu make Cosme one of the top 5 casual dining spots in Lima. And you can take that to the bank.

The menu has twenty-five dishes and none of them are aji de gallina. Yes. There’s a ceviche on the menu. But it’s fried. So, I think it’s fair to say it’s not really a ceviche. Frying likely transports it from delicious to extraordinarily delicious and interesting.

I like the way this chef’s mind works. There are three beef dishes on the menu. And they utilize the three most flavorful and umami-packed cuts of beef. He uses the skirt steak for the Peruvian stir-fry (a saltado called Entracado on the menu). The veal cheeks are braised for some ridiculously long period of time until they turn into clouds of flavor (Hello, comfort food!). And if you want another beefy punch of flavor, try the grilled sweetbreads.

Something Asian is mandatory on a menu in Lima, right? Chef Berckemeyer decided to throw us another curveball by going the American-style bistro route, putting the popular hand-held Asian-morph bistro food, the lettuce wrap, on his menu. You can enjoy your artisanal beer by grabbing that frosted mug with your right hand and keeping that lettuce wrap curled up in your left hand without ever putting either one of them down. That’s the way you’re supposed to eat them, right?

The menu already sounds like the cast from Murder on the Orient Express. But Chef Berckemeyer throws one final curve-ball for the strikeout. If you’re compiling a comfort food menu you can’t omit the quintessential French peasant dish, Beef Bourguignon, now, can you?

Looking for a dessert that will have you reminiscing about your childhood? How about a gourmet ice cream sandwich or a gourmet version of Nestle’s world-famous drumstick (chocolate-dipped ice cream cone) for transporting you back in time?

Not gourmet enough for you? How about a deconstructed key-lime pie? The chef somehow turns a lime into a fully-edible burst of flavor. As with any deconstructed dish you have to put it all back together. Take the cookie crumbs and spread them about in the sweet and creamy sauce. Whittle-off a tiny sliver of that lime and get a little bit of everything on the spoon. When you put that spoon into your mouth, make sure your eyes are closed so you can get the full effect. Yum.

Twenty-five savory dishes plus an array of amusement-park desserts. You can go to Cosme every week for six months and order a unique and delicious meal without every repeating a dish. And that’s exactly what you should do!

Summary: Cosme serves creative comfort food in a cosmically comfortable setting. Imaginative menu. Good execution and service. A top 5 casual dining spot in Lima.

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